Transcript
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Everyone has a story to tell.
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We connect and relate to one another when we share our stories.
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My name is Amelia Old and I am your host of Voices of Inspiration.
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Join me as I share stories of friends, family and strangers from my everyday life and travels.
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You will laugh, possibly cry or walk away, feeling connected more than ever to those around you and ready to be the change our world needs.
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Everyone has a story to tell.
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What's yours?
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So thank you so much for joining me today and taking time out of your crazy busy schedule and just to tell me a little bit about your story in the culinary world.
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I really appreciate you being with me today.
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I'm happy to be here.
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As usual, both restaurants are just full tilt.
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I've got great crews at both those, so they're handling things, which allows me to spend some time chatting with you things, which allows me to spend some time chatting with you.
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Now.
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Let's start with that, because you told me when I met you you have employees that have been with you a really long time, and I thought that was so impressive.
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Yeah, I've been real fortunate.
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I don't know what all the circumstances were that brought it together, but I've been real lucky to hire very good people.
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Of course, I like to think I treat them well, pay them as much as I can and make sure they get paid and give them a good working environment and therefore in this industry, which is known for really high turnover, I've had people working with me over two decades.
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At Rivertown Bistro.
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My general manager has been with me roughly 18 years, my chef roughly 20 years.
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Wow, he started off as a dishwasher and a prep cook and just moved up through the ranks, you know, and I'm fortunate to have solid people that were willing to learn, adapt and grow with me as I've grown on my culinary journey.
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I think that's really amazing.
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They must love what they do, and I think that's great to find people like that as well.
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Yeah, there's a true passion for them.
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My general manager, lee, is outstanding, service-oriented.
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It helps that she's a good cook, a foodie, she knows wines, she's just stellar.
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She gets along really well with my wife.
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My wife has backed off of the day-to-day operations.
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It used to be she and I daily at Rivertown when we opened 30 years ago.
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She did all the front of the house and the wine ordering and she's still integral in all that.
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My wife Cindy, and actually she's in the house on her computer.
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She's taking her Psalm course.
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So she's still got the passion too.
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And then Terry, my chef, once again started off dishing, moved slowly up the ranks through garbage, desserts, grill, saute.
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He can do everything in the kitchen that I can do.
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And he's younger and so that's a plus, because cooking is a young man's sport.
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I can still hang with the guys, I show them technique and new things all the time for eight hours, day in and day out.
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It's kind of grueling.
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So I let the young guys kind of do that on the daily, but I'm still around.
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I'm usually at either of the restaurants anywhere from 10 to 12 hours a day.
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What inspired you to pursue a career in the culinary world?
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That's funny.
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I attended Winthrop University, which is right outside of Charlotte, purely to play soccer.
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It's Um, I I really didn't know.
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But then reality started to set in, like what if I can't play?
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Or what if something happened to my legs or something?
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And my brother at the time, uh, had graduated uh, culinary school up in Rhode Island.
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We're both from the Southeast, he was born in Tennessee, I was born in Charleston, but he sung the praises of cooking.
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And this is back before.
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It was cool to be a cook.
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There were no cooking shows.
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I mean, there was like the Galloping Gourmet which I started to get hooked on and it was this chef, uh, I forget what country it was from, but pasquale, I think it was italian, but I would watch both of them, um, and some other various shows.
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But he sung the praises of you know just cooking and how it makes you feel, and the camaraderie.
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And you know, if you surround yourself with good cooks and you're sending out good food, you're making people happy, the immediacy of a meal course after course, in the span of a couple of hours, people will come back into the kitchen oftentimes and say, hey, that was one of the best dishes I've ever had, or we're celebrating our anniversary and we're here because the food's so good.
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Um, and once I started cooking in that frame of mind, um, it just takes over all your senses.
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Uh, it gives you a good purpose.
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Um, pleasing other people, it's an honest trade.
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You'll always eat, I mean, there's just so many pluses about it.
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So, um, I love it as much as I did the first day I started doing it and it clicked with me, and I like to spread that out to all of my employees, just that you know, working in the kitchen or working serving tables isn't anything to be.
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I don't know.
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I think some people look at it as a stepping stone to get to a career.
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I think this is a career, and an important one, because I think not enough people gather around a dinner table and eat good, delicious, fresh food.
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Enough.
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Everyone's too frantic, everyone.
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Oh, let's just pick up, carry out.
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You know, don't get me wrong wrong I like carry out occasionally, but I just really enjoy the the meal aspect.
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I love that.
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Can you share a memorable experience from maybe your early days in the kitchen that sort of shaped your approach to cooking?
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um, I had, uh.
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I moved from Rock Hill, where Winthrop was, down to Mount Pleasant to live with my dad and my goal was to work at Johnson and Wales.
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So I toured the school and subsequently I had enough credits that would attribute to an associate's degree on an accelerated program.
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But I had to get some practical experience, which I'm very thankful for.
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I didn't just start culinary school, they wanted me in the field learning sort of the school of hard knocks and I worked at a few sort of dive restaurants.
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And then I walked into this restaurant that was on Shem Creek, coleman Boulevard, right beside Shem Creek.
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It was called Locklear's and everyone in the kitchen got along really well and there were some true Southern Geechee guys that had that thick Geechee accent and their grandmothers had taught them how to cook.
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My grandmothers had taught them how to cook.
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So these guys were my age to mid-20s and knew how to cook grits and okra and all this delicious stuff.
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But they could also saute snapper and make bernets restaurant, where we're making everything from scratch, and the mother sauces.
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And if you had an idea, the chef was very stubborn but he would come around and accept that you did want to learn.
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We would always have to do things his way, but it was such an important thing for me to see why butter, when it's clarified clarified emulsifies into egg yolks, because every day we're doing it and I just always wanted to know why and how much lemon juice and a little bit of salt and some tarragon reduction, and how it transforms this hollandaise into this delicious sauce.
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That's probably my first memory of me making something.
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And then we draped it over, how it was, on a filet.
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We also did it on a spiced chicken breast, with these roasted potatoes, with this delicate buttery sauce, and it just I remember we cooked it and we all ate it and I was just thrilled that I had prepared this dish.
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Um, that's probably my earliest memory of working in a professional kitchen and making something the first time.
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But then the repetitive aspect of making that dish as close as you can so that if three people at a six top get it, each plate looks the same, tastes the same.
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I found the importance in that as well.
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So there are a lot of things that you absorb, especially as a younger person.
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When you come into a professional environment like that.
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Some people are like, oh, 12 hours and it's hot and I could cut myself and there's flames and no, this isn't for me.
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I've seen it day in and day out.
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But some people like myself go bring it on.
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I love it.
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Let's get busy.
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Let's do 20 more people than we did last night, and last night we did 20 more than the previous night.
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It's that adrenaline rush.
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Now you've.
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Now you've run several successful restaurants and you have a couple of successful restaurants.
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Now, what values or principles guide your approach to running a successful restaurant?
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I think the nuts and bolts have to be from the ground up.
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You want a good atmosphere.
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You want good food served in a timely fashion.
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You want enough variety that people a mixed group of people can all find something that they like.
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You have to get the food to the table.
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When I moved to Conway I realized it's the county seat, so a lot of attorneys on schedules.
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We weren't on the coast with this four hour lunch that people could enjoy.
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They come in every now and then.
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You might sell a glass of wine, but people are wanting a sweet tea.
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Their lunch in about 15 minutes after being seated and then they're on their way.
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And once you could do that, we could pack the house.
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So we learned to um, cook really good food really quickly.
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Um, and prepare ourselves and do as much as we could to make it easier on ourselves.
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You know you can.
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You certainly can't boil pasta to order or make risottos, so you learn to part these things off.
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Go ahead and have your vegetables cut, or maybe the longer cooking root vegetables pre-roasted, doing all these touches that some people might consider sandbagging, but I consider it being smart.
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Um, lining your pantry with infused oils and spice blends and different garnishes, um, compound butters in your freezer, um, all of a sudden you can make these world-class dishes and people are like wow, and you just used your arsenal of stuff.
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Sudden, you can make these world-class dishes and people are like, wow, and you just used your arsenal of stuff that you've prepared.
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Yeah, I think it's important a good environment, good food and truth in menu.
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Um, you know, I've eaten in plenty of places where you read something on the menu and when it comes out it's like this is not grouper or they say these are local, whatever, and it doesn't appear to be that way.
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So I don't know why people would do that.
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It's so much easier to say what you're going to do and do what you're going to say, I guess.
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But I'm a big fan of you know, I was changing the menu very frequently, but I learned that I kind of need to keep a core menu in place and two or three times a year we change, because now I don't really want root vegetables and that kind of stuff, and asparagus is popping up, you know, and there's some hyper seasonal foods that I thoroughly enjoy, thoroughly enjoy, but I can't do fiddlehead ferns and ramps and these ingredients that I really enjoy getting um all throughout the summer.
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So I get a bunch in and I'll make the ramp uh, the green part of the ramp into tubs and tubs of pesto and stick them in the freezer and then pickle the whites and, um, you know, pickle morel mushrooms or whatever, just to elongate the season for myself and to let others enjoy it that way.
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You know, I think that that is really important to keep the menu, you know, somewhat the same, because it can be frustrating as someone dining in a restaurant and you're going there for a specific dish and then the menu has been changed and people like what they like, right, and so they're coming to you oftentimes because there's something specific on that menu that they just have a craving for, that they really want.
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So I do think that that is important.
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You know, as a diner that seeing a restaurant kind of stick to you know that core group of dishes.
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Well, and yeah, for sure, and I purposely rotate dishes from 30 years ago, um, and it's funny for me to do that, and I think to myself how is it that you know I wrote a menu 30 years ago we opened June in 1994, and I had some pretty fun things on the menu and I'll describe a few of them.
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But I had just learned about tapenade and I loved to smear it on a meaty fish and roast it in the oven with panko breadcrumbs mixed with pine nuts as the crust and simply serve that over caramelized onions.
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It was simple, it was delicious, it was packed full of flavor and it was something that I could do, because I was basically the only cook and I could do that well and I could serve that and people really, really liked it.
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And at the same time, on the same menu, I had a black, a lightly blackened dolphin and I still black and stuff to this day.
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Um, one of the previous chefs that I worked with uh got Paul Prudhomme's cookbook and, um, we, we just devoured that book.
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Every recipe how to make rue, uh, gumbos, etouffees, you name it.
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Um, I got engrossed in that too, and that you know that was uh, early mid eighties.
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Uh, um, and that's when I started to get intrigued in that, probably about 87, 88.
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Um, I started to get intrigued in that probably about 87, 88.
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Um, I could be wrong, but I think so.
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But anyway, I would blacken this dolphin and I put it on a jalapeno grit cake.
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So there was a restaurant in Charleston that had just opened and I want to say they did the grit cake or maybe I saw it, I forget where I saw it.
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Um, but I thought I'll make it my own and I'll put diced up, pickled jalapenos in it to add to that heat and I'm going to blacken it and then I'm going to cool it all with a blue crab cream poured over the top and then I'll just do some seasonal vegetables or maybe zucchini and squash on the side.
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So those are two dishes.
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You know, I could flat top, I could drop the great cake, I would pre-make the sauce, the crab cream, and keep it up high.
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I could roast the fish in the oven.
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So I had these two dishes and then I had a steak, I had a couple of pastas and I just kind of learned to do these things that were fresh and good and very flavorful but not locked in.
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You know this was kind of low country, this is kind of Mediterranean, and I was pulling from all these different areas and foods that I had eaten at and liked and I took great joy in that.
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So I don't like to be pigeonholed.
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I call my restaurant Rivertown Bistro, not that it's a Brasserie or a French Bistro, even though I love Razzare's and bistros and that's one of my go-tos when I eat out of town.
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But I do want mussels with good crusty bread or French fries, and I have French onion soup on my menu.
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But we also have references to Jamaica.
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We have Jamaican jerk sauce on my menu, I've got risotto.
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I've got through and through low country and I think it's important to use local stuff.
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I'm so tired of the moniker farm to table, because if you're not doing that, what exactly are you doing?
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But I think people say that way too much.
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It's just like of course you should use local because it's local, and why wouldn't you?
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But that also doesn't stop me from getting salmon flown in, because people really like salmon and I can't get salmon here and I don't know.
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I just think submerging yourself into doing things, or at least try to do things the right way your hiring practices, the way you prep, the way you treat your ingredients, all the way down to recycling.
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I think it's important to try your best.
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Sometimes you don't make it all the way, sometimes it's maybe at the end of the day I'm like man, I feel like I only did 85%, you know.
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Well, that's okay.
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Sometimes, you know, you just pick yourself up, dust yourself off and the next day you attempt it again.
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One of my favorite cookbook authors, charlie Trotter, you know he recently passed.
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I was lucky enough to eat at his restaurant, but he had wonderful quotes through his restaurant, through his cookbooks, and one of them was from another chef.
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But it basically said and I'll just paraphrase that unlike most other occupations, the chef starts new every single day.
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I mean, you're going into a hopefully a clean stove, empty pans, and here comes your product and you break down the fish and you chop your vegetables and you do that.
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You get a clean slate every day and you can say, okay, gosh, this is a lot of work.
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Or you can say I'm going to make this stuff delicious and I'm going to have fun prepping it and we're going to have a good night's service and before we know it, we're going to be mopping our stations down, and then we'll have a glass of wine and toast the night, and then we're going to do it all over again tomorrow.
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I love that.
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What has been, you think, one of the biggest challenges that you faced through your journey, and how did you overcome it?
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Even in a really good economy, with low food prices and abundant labor, what else?
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When everything's like hitting on all cylinders, a restaurant is very difficult to run profitably.
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So my wife and I have always tried to put everything under the magnifying glass, holding all of our purveyors to the task of yes, I want the best, I will pay top dollar for the best, but I don't want you to then think I want to pay top dollar for flour and salt and stuff that you can gouge me in other areas.
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So I think it's really important to build relationships, not only with my workers and we're a family there but my purveyors.
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When they come in and they bring people in reps, I want to buy their lunch.
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I'm not looking for freebies for them, I want to see their products and I want the purveyor and my local guy to know that they can come eat with me and I like them.
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I don't look at them as like.
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I've been in situations where I've seen other restaurant owners and chefs treat their salesmen and yell at them like they're underlings, like my fish didn't come in and it's your fault, you're going to have to do this.
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I mean, we're all trying to do the right thing.
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So, um, I think you know, keeping things in perspective, putting everything under the magnifying glass and holding yourself and everyone else to task is important.
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Sure, people look at me and go man, that guy has two restaurants and you know he can, you know, probably makes a lot of money.
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The profit margin is so small in what we do.
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Um, I do take advantage of eating really, really good food and drinking delicious wines and going on trips to food destinations, wine destinations, where the people that I purchased from take care of us and let us stay for free and give us private tours.
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Those aspects are invaluable to me.
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That's where I'm wealthy Monetarily.
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I think Mondavi said and I'll liken it to a restaurant, but he said you want to know how to make a small fortune in the wine industry, start with a large fortune.
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And that's probably my favorite quote, because at the end of it all, you have a small fortune but look what fun you've had and you've sold your stuff and you've made other people happy.
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You know, of course I want to save money and I have a daughter that's the light of my life and she's in college now.
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So putting her through school and I grew up, uh, not as fortunate as a lot of my contemporaries.
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Um, my, my family didn't make a lot of money, so I appreciated the smaller things in life and the fact that we would go out to dinner maybe every other month.
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My dad would save his money and we would go out to a nice place to get a steak and maybe learn the value of it.
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My parents never gave me a car or anything.
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I would work my butt off to have some of the nicer things in life and do good enough to buy my daughter a car and pay her way through school and not spoil her to the extent where she expects it, but teach her the value of life and what to do and take nothing for granted.
00:23:41.528 --> 00:23:44.169
I can relate to you in a lot of ways with that.
00:23:44.169 --> 00:23:48.411
You know I also didn't grow up, you know, wealthy I didn't.
00:23:48.411 --> 00:23:50.238
You know my family didn't have a lot.
00:23:50.238 --> 00:24:06.838
But one thing that is important to me, like yourself, are the experiences that we have along the way and growing from those and experiencing those with our loved ones, and even with our children two are who adults now and we still have one at home.
00:24:06.838 --> 00:24:28.651
One of our favorite things to do with the holidays is give them a gift of an experience, whether that's a trip with us, you know, one-on-one time, concert tickets, you know, an activity they really wanted to do but an experience where that they can create these memories and it's not something that they're just going to toss to the side in six months.
00:24:28.651 --> 00:24:32.138
So I think that those things are really incredible and important.
00:24:33.402 --> 00:24:35.192
I think that's just fantastic.
00:24:35.192 --> 00:24:37.455
That gave me goosebumps.
00:24:37.455 --> 00:24:40.580
I think that's so important.
00:24:40.580 --> 00:24:45.757
You know, like you say, around the holidays, you know what is the reason for the season.
00:24:45.757 --> 00:24:50.814
You know we all, we always uh, pause for the true reason.
00:24:50.814 --> 00:24:54.383
But then of course we want to rip into some fun gifts.
00:24:54.383 --> 00:24:56.634
But then we do the same thing too.
00:24:56.634 --> 00:25:05.914
We want to um plan a trip and um, sometimes we'll even skip the whole tradition.
00:25:05.914 --> 00:25:11.744
I will say we kind of miss the traditions when we do it, but we do.
00:25:11.744 --> 00:25:24.471
We'll book a trip to New York over the Christmas holiday and get a nice hotel room and bring a little Charlie Brown tree and candles that smell like pine, so we have that feeling like we're at home.
00:25:24.471 --> 00:25:36.704
But then we're walking the city and it's snowing and we're eating at Jean Georges or Per Se or a hot dog from the street cart, and man talk about some fun memories.
00:25:36.704 --> 00:25:41.099
So yeah, we're very similar in those respects.
00:25:41.099 --> 00:25:43.270
I think that's awesome, absolutely.
00:25:44.092 --> 00:25:52.986
So what advice would you give to aspiring chefs who want to build a career in the culinary industry?
00:25:57.590 --> 00:26:03.876
Read, collect cookbooks when you get out of culinary school.
00:26:03.876 --> 00:26:15.151
You are not a chef school.
00:26:15.151 --> 00:26:15.550
You are not a chef.
00:26:15.550 --> 00:26:17.114
Work under several good chefs, but spend time.
00:26:17.114 --> 00:26:20.259
Don't work for two months and think you've learned somebody's technique, work ethic.
00:26:20.259 --> 00:26:32.825
Work for somebody for a year, work for another place for a year or two and then start developing your situation, what you think you want to do.
00:26:32.825 --> 00:26:38.179
I just think I'm a mentor.
00:26:39.039 --> 00:26:50.525
I sit on the culinary board for the culinary school and I'm very good friends with all the chefs out there, and when they get an up and comer, that's really good.
00:26:50.525 --> 00:27:11.044
We're one of the places that they'll send, and that's my first thing to tell them is to just, you know, go in to my restaurant and be clean, be organized, listen and then slowly develop.
00:27:11.044 --> 00:27:40.253
I think that's the biggest thing, is to just take it all in, take every aspect in, watch how the service is, watch how um people move, um, when you're walking behind somebody and you say behind you and you know all the little, there's so many little jargon, whatever you want to call it, in the, the restaurant business, in the kitchen, um, that that's its whole language in itself.
00:27:40.253 --> 00:27:41.295
Um.
00:27:41.295 --> 00:27:57.142
So if you mesh, maybe um, a stage or a you or a cooking experience or some cooking with some good chefs, and you get some cookbooks and you look at them and you read them and you look at them.
00:27:57.142 --> 00:27:58.453
I get them more for the pictures.
00:27:58.453 --> 00:27:59.337
I collect cookbooks.
00:27:59.337 --> 00:27:59.940
I have hundreds.
00:27:59.940 --> 00:28:09.010
I don't get them to get somebody's recipe so that I can make their scone or something, even though maybe you know I would.
00:28:09.010 --> 00:28:22.991
But I get it because I want to see the chef's mentality, I want to read who the person was that wrote the foreword and I want to know that the grandma did this way and then I switched it up to make it this way.
00:28:22.991 --> 00:28:25.675
You know, there's always a good story in them.
00:28:25.675 --> 00:28:31.404
So young chefs should do that and look at your family and how your family ate.
00:28:31.829 --> 00:28:38.663
Like I said, I grew up with fish sticks and jarred applesauce and I had never had fresh fish.
00:28:38.663 --> 00:28:39.324
I didn't know.
00:28:39.324 --> 00:28:41.594
I thought barbecue came in a can.
00:28:41.594 --> 00:28:45.123
I'm not kidding Castleberry's barbecue.
00:28:45.123 --> 00:28:46.734
I'll eat it to this day.
00:28:46.734 --> 00:28:53.857
Chef Boyardee pizza that's what I thought pizza was.
00:28:53.857 --> 00:28:53.938
Um.
00:28:53.958 --> 00:28:55.200
I've got a box.
00:28:55.861 --> 00:28:57.463
Exactly, Exactly.
00:28:57.463 --> 00:29:13.832
And um, if I make the Chef Boyardee pizza with that stinky Pecorino Romano canned cheese that I love and it's baking in the oven Romano canned cheese that I love and it's baking in the oven I go all the way back to eighth grade watching six million dollar man and Logan's run.
00:29:13.832 --> 00:29:19.015
And I'm in the den and my mom and dad are in the kitchen and my brother's on the couch.
00:29:19.015 --> 00:29:22.140
I'm laying on the floor and that's the smell.